Building Science Services


FRENCH DRAINS

Professional consulting is available.


FRENCH DRAIN: The ubiquitous French Drain, what is it; hidden, invisible, unobtrusive, just out of site and out of reach, subtle and misunderstood, it stands guard against aggressive aqua slowly sacrificing itself if required to protect. It's a ditch filled with stone, and buried; an underground lay of pipe full of loose joints or holes, opening to daylight at an un-obvious termination. It's inside and outside, at the base of a wall or the foot of a hill but always underneath. Put in once and forgotten until through service it becomes rotten, and water once again flows where we wish our feet to trod and no water be allowed to expose. It's perceived demise brings panic to some of our best and then to renew its repose they heavily invest.

The "French" drain type construction technique was used by the Romans and others., so it may originally have been "Trench" drain. For now, it's just nomenclature. The term may be limited to the building trades or may just be colloquial to certain areas.

"French Drain" means a buried drain system used to collect and channel water in a controlled manner. Not unlike a storm sewer or underground pipe, but different in that the pipe may be perforated or have loose joints, may collect water along its entire length and usually is utilized for subtle, slow moving, or small-but-steady amounts of water such that a ground surface drying affect is produced in a given area.

An exterior French Drain used to remove surface water, is constructed by digging a trench or ditch a given depth and length, filling the trench up with a fairly solid but permeable material such as river gravel or crushed stone; usually with a perforated pipe laid at the bottom of the trench and traveling its entire length. The bottom of the trench should be below the frost line, but sometimes at or below the lowest point of a structure it is intended to protect (to intercept the water and direct the it away from the structure). The bottom of an exterior French Drain ditch must be sloped downward if it is not cut into a hill or natural slope. When used to collect surface water, such as at the base of a hill, it is often left open at the top (so the gravel can be seen at the surface); when intercepting significant amounts of surface run-off, if the gravel or stone does not travel all the way to the top of the surface ( to "daylight"), it may not work well, or at all.

Sometimes French drains are used to remove water from the base of a hill, when the hill terminates into a yard or level area desirable for use. Or, to place the water of a weeping or spring filled hillside below the surface to keep the surface dryer, and therefore manageable.

French Drains are commonly used behind retaining walls.This is most effective on large or tall walls of poured concrete, or brick/stone laid up with mortar (because there is no easy way for water to escape from the wall). "Dry Walls" are laid up of stone or interlocking concrete block with no mortar. "Dry Walls" may allow trapped water to escape almost anywhere in the wall where water builds up, and are less in need of rear (internal) drainage. Proper use of a French Drain behind a retaining wall (gravel and pipe at bottom rear of wall, with pipe traveling parallel to the base of the wall, connecting eventually to a lower relief point), when used on a solid type wall, this does preserve the wall, and may extend its life indefinitley.This is most effective when the pipe has a large diameter of six (6) to eight (8) inches or more, and the high side of the wall has some type of ground surface treatment to minimize the lingering of water immediately behind the wall.


French Drain installations are improved and protected when accompanied by terraces, swales, soil curbs, dikes or crowns

All French Drain installations are improved and protected when accompanied by ground surface treatments such as terraces (on hills), swales, curbs, dikes or crowns; and by sealers on the exterior of foundation walls.
[For more information on surface treatment see the Basement Dampness page and the Site Drainage page; similar rules apply to retaining walls as do for the perimeter of building foundations.]

A variation for retaining walls, on the typically buried (behind the wall) French Drain, is filling the gravel behind the wall all the way up to the top, so that water making it to the wall immediately runs down behind the wall, through the gravel, to the pipe at the base and is carried away. This is not recommended if the water being drained is likely to carry silt or fine particles of soil. The silt can quickly clog up the gravel and stop all flow of water. Silt, and fine particles of soil, clogging up gravel is precisely the ultimate cause of the failure of most French Drains, especially if the drain is "flat" (level). And, is why a "flat" French Drain should only be used as a safety barrier, not a working drain. Working drains should be capable of running constantly and indefinitely with little maintenance, and are never flat ("flat" = level, having no pitch or slope).

One notable exception to allowing the gravel to rise to the surface is ball fields. Here we have a large flat area where water cannot drain off easily, and is prone to puddle such that a ball field can become one huge mud field --impossible to play on or even walk on. It is common practice to sink a matrix of interlinking or crisscrossing perforated or lose sectional drainage pipes buried one to two feet below the surface, that join to a perimeter pipe at the edges of the field and feed off the the nearest safe low spot. These pipes may be surrounded by some gravel, with a filter cloth laid over the gravel to keep out some dirt, but are then covered directly by earth. This works since there are a lot of pipes and they are close to the surface. Sometimes the ground just below the surface is intermixed with sand or finely crushed stone, to make the ground more porous above the pipes.

A common surface treatment for ball fields is crowning. Crowning means to raise the middle so the surface is slightly curved, and falls off toward the edges. The best ball fields are slightly crowned at the center, like country roads and city streets, directing some of the water off to the the sides or berms. Crowning is one of the many surface treatments that can compliment well designed French Drains.

Country roads, city roads, ancient highways, and many paved public paths, also combine crowning and French Drains. this was a technique well known and widely used by Roman road builders of many centuries ago. Many of these roads are still in use. Why mention this; simply to say that French type drains have a been around for a long time and are proven.

Another example of buried French Drains used to drains a large flat area is seen on mid-western farms where the soil surface is often unmanageably wet. Miles of near flat to slightly rolling land are made tillable with buried drains. A matrix of French Drains placed 24 inches to 48 inches below the surface lowers the water level and thus the soil moisture. Wet spots or puddles on one of these drained fields is a giveaway for a damaged or clogged drain line. Placing and repairing these lines was a full time job for many young men until back hoes and the "Ditch Witch" became affordable. ( A Ditch Witch is a large chain saw like tool mounted on a tractor; this can quickly cut a deep narrow ditch in most soils.) A lot of food has been put on the table thanks to this aggressive use of the French Drain.

The one use of French Drains that surpasses all other uses in commonality, concern and misunderstanding, is the almost universal footer drain. Footer Drains, also known as perimeter drains and foundation drains; are used at the outside base of building foundation walls to protect against and prevent ground water entry. The use of these drains are a science and a controversy in themselves, with many variations having been added in recent history. The one universal application of the foundation French drain, that is most proven and most widely accepted is simply the placement of a drain pipe covered with gravel at the outside base of a foundation; followed by adding dirt from the building site (back-filling) to the top of the excavation.
Before back-filling, the gravel may be topped off with a loose layer of roofing felt or filter cloth to keep soil from pushing or pressuring into the gravel, but still allows errant water to enter. The whole basis and the guiding concept for this design is to intercept and redirect excessive water entering the fill around the building foundation. The widest consensus of opinion among builders and designers is that this is a safety belt, providing final protection from water build-up and intrusion. It must be accompanied, and preceded, by other protections. Two standard accompaniments are a moisture resistant coating on the outside surface of concrete block walls, and proper surface soil contouring to guide surface water away from the wall. A moisture resistant foundation coating can range from black asphalt type paint-on/roll-on/spray-on coating, to plastic sheeting, to the older standard of an overall troweled on parging of a cement and mortar mix. The major disadvantage of the perimeter or footer drain type of French Drain is that it is a "flat" drain.

When placed at the base of a foundation wall either inside or outside, these drains almost have to be "flat" drains that have limited usefulness, and usually a limited working life. Such a drain system is intended to be a back-up system or a final safety barrier for uncontrolled water that makes it past the ground surface treatments and saturates the foundation perimeter back-fill. When they become regular working drains they slowly clog up from the fine soil and silt that inevitably precipitates out of the slow moving water (traveling a horizontal drain). Most of the time, this clogging process is the result of negligence (in lack of surface maintenance). The final effect of that is a wet or flooded basement floor or crawl space. From the time the surface treatments --or other water control systems such as gutter, downspouts, or underground rain directors--fail, it takes about ten years for most drains to fatally clog. Since most of these flat foundation drains are not fitted with a vertical rise of pipe to the surface, allowing inspection and a cleaning out access to the flat pipe, once they clog, they are useless and un-repairable without digging them up.


French Drains are found wherever there is any type of construction or built environment.

You may be getting the feeling that French drains are found everywhere. French Drains may be and often are found wherever there is any type of construction or built environment. Quite simply, structures can not survive without them in any climate where there is moderate rainfall, snow melt or a frequent frost-heave cycle. So, they are nearly universal. But, they are also nearly universally out of sight.

So why are they so mysterious, or why all the confusion. Given that they are expected to last indefinitely --a misconception-- they are put in place at the time of construction and buried, usually without any type of access or maintenance feature. It is generally assumed they are there, but the average person never sees one. A failure gives rise to suspicion and speculation without benefit of direct observation. Often the worst is assumed: that some sort of subsurface water source exists or has suddenly arrived, and overcome the capacity of the original French Drain. Other factors contribute to misunderstanding such as the phenomenon of water showing up a day or two after an extended period of rainfall, and continuing to run for some days after the rain has stopped. Water coming in immediately during a rain and stopping with the rain can be equally confusing to some who don't make the connection between rain and basement water. Sometimes once the water begins to enter it just never stops, that seems mysterious, because it just "suddenly" appears. the owner has little way of knowing that slow changes around his building have set him up, the process has fermented and the last rain triggers the final act --water coming through the foundation.


Much confusion exists because of decades of armies of "Water Proofing" salesmen talking about underground springs.

Further confusion exists because of decades of armies of "Water Proofing" salesmen talking about underground springs (that mainly exist in the imagination) and other less than likely scenarios; but infect the unschooled building owner with panic. The "Water Proofers" get a great degree of because most lending institutions and banks, endorse this quick fix. Even plumbers get in on the act --why not. But the cure is too cheap and too easily done to get any marketing finance. Like a lot of things, only the complex, hard to understand, but easy to execute approach gets any salesmen going to bat. Think about it, wouldn't it be a lot easier to sell something that requires work just a little beyond the capability of most homeowners, but not so difficult as to require specialized trades, is buried and not readily accessible, and resolves a homeowners panic without the liability of digging up their yard. And, appears to be a quick fix. But with little factual intelligence left behind by the person interested in making a sale, the salesman does little to diminish confusion. When these instant fixes fail again, the salesman is usually "no longer available". Panic is un-assuaged. Misunderstanding continues. Factual information is unavailable.

Not surprisingly, outside of the "Water-Proofing" business, there is little consensus of opinion and no single trades group; and so, little agreement exists on how to apply French Drains to preexisting residential situations. This is also where the most people, in sheer numbers, are faced with surface water problems. Where the greatest amount of discussion about the subject occurs, is also where there is the least amount of knowledge.

Naturally, as in all construction, there is an abundant variety of opportunities for improper use and just plain mistakes. Below are a few examples of wrong application of French Drains.


The most common mistake is to install a shallow exterior perimeter drain next to a foundation.

Probably the most common one is the to install a shallow exterior perimeter drain next to a foundation. This consists of the standard pipe and surrounding crushed stone being placed next to a problematic foundation but placed well above the bottom of the foundation, with foundation back-fill soil yet below the drain and continuing on down to the bottom of the original dig. In this case errant water travels right past the shallow drain and continues on down to the bottom of the dig. There is little to stop it and make it go horizontal at the the location of the new shallow drain, because it is in the middle of the eternally loose/porous back-fill.

The use of a "sump", or gravel filled pit, to terminate the French Drain and absorb the "engineered", is a poor choice. I've seen this as a large solution to getting rid of the run off. Often these large sumps fill up quickly then spill out, only moving the problem, not solving it. If the soil surrounding the sump is porous enough to absorb the water, the sumps also clog up just like a flat drain --where else would the silt end up-- then the water surfaces again. When these are connected to a building perimeter drain, the water ends up back in the basement or crawl space.

Coupling a roof downspout ground drain (underground rain director) and a French Drain pipe to a common pipe frequently causes either the roof drain to donate its water to the area that is supposed to be made drier by the French Drain, or the French Drain clogs the rain director. When two systems exist in close proximity, they should be in separate piping all the way to the termination point.

Too small of a pipe size is nearly universal. Four inch pipe should seldom be used for a French Drain anywhere but as a foundation perimeter drain on an average size home with no expected problem, but it is the most common choice. Another reason that most systems fail.

The list of faux paus could go on. This is what a professional consultant does, he collects knowledge by inspecting and correcting mistakes, that is an endless job. Applying the successful ways to use French Drains is also and endless endeavor. That is the good side. When properly installed they work well, for a long time, with little maintenance.


When using French Drains, consult with a proven independent expert.

Information on the proper use of French Drains is something you can get access to. Any time you face the task of using French Drains, consult with a proven independent expert. (Not a water proofing company salesman --the "free" inspection is tempting-- nothing worthwhile is truly free.) That should be the first step. This is true with solving water collection and dampness problems in general. An expert can save you a ton of money and a world of aggravation from effects of dampness.



When you need to be sure, hire us for a professional consult. We do professional fee-paid consulting-at-a-distance, and can solve many problems over the phone. Locality is not a barrier to at-a-distance consulting that can be done for virtually any place in the USA, Canada and most other English speaking areas as well.


[ JUMP TO TOP ] [ HOME PAGE] [ RETURN TO MENU OF ARTICLES
[ INSPECTION RELATED LINKS ] [ COST GUIDE ]

If you have special questions
We are available for professional consulting.
For professional service, call (412) 241-1980.


   
Come back!

   
Main Page
Home
Or, if you wish to go back to where you were, click your back button.
frenchdr:980901;20080923;090502;2010507,100513.